Isle of Islay in Scotland: A guide to visiting the whisky island

Known as the Queen of the Hebrides, this island is a place that rewards slow travellers. Those willing to swap the rush for stormy beach walks, distillery tastings by the fire, and that unmistakable smoky air. It’s why Islay is my favourite place in the whole world – here is something so special about the wild weather, the remote location in Scotland and the smoky whisky that just calls to my soul. Here’s everything you need to plan a visit to the Isle of Islay and the top things to see and do, from a Scotland-based travel writer who keeps coming back.

Eye-la or I-slay? If you’re visiting Scotland, it helps to learn the correct pronunciation of Islay before you go. It is easy to get the pronunciation wrong if you’ve only ever seen Islay written on a map of Scotland. But consider me your Scotland-based fairy godmother as I am here to tell you that it’s pronounced eye-la [ˈiːlə].

Why trust this Isle of I slay travel guide?

• A frequent island visitor with inside information: I have been lucky enough to visit this lovely part of the world frequently over the past couple of years. And I’ve been lucky enough to make friends on the island. And they’ve been generous enough to share their favourite spots and information with me. It’s thanks to them that I know that the most accurate weather app for island weather (including Islay) in Scotland is XCWeather!
• A whisky writer who’s gateway whisky was from the Isle of Islay: The whisky that made me start liking whisky was the Ardbeg 10 Year Old. Therefore Ardbeg is a distillery on the island that I have a very soft spot for. There is something so special about having a dram of whisky at the very place where that whisky would’ve been made years and years ago.
• A Scotland enthusiast who’s happy to share recommendations: Although I’m originally from Sweden I have now been living in Scotland for over a decade. This country has such a special place in my heart. Nothing brings me more joy than share my top spots and recommendations with others who are coming to discover everything Scotland has to offer.

When to visit the Isle of Islay

Although Islay might have the most pleasant weather in the summer months (as it tends to be across Scotland), the winter is also a lovely time to visit the island if you’re keen to visit the whisky distilleries. Nothing better than warming up in the still room followed by a whisky tasting on a stormy winters day.

Peak season

The peak season on the island is during the summer months. It is also particularly busy during the Fèis Ìle festival the last week of May.

Shoulder season

Spring and autumn make up the shoulder seasons for the island. They are a great time to visit if you prefer less people around and better prices at the accommodation options. Personally I have a soft spot for autumn as I love how vibrant the colours are when the leaves change. And it’s not yet too cold for a little refreshing dip in the sea. In September there is also the Islay Jazz Festival. Perfect for combining a trip to the island with some fun music.

Low season

Winter is the peak low season on the island. I have been to the Islay in January and the weather across Scotland can be quite harsh. But it can still be a good time to visit. Especially if you want to see the rugged landscape utterly wild and almost have the island to yourself. It’s also the perfect season for hiding away in distilleries with a dram of whisky. Because of the low season, the tour guides and visitor centre staff at the distilleries might even have some extra time to spare. Which can make for really interesting conversations. Just be aware that some restaurants and shops may be closed during the winter months.

How to get here

Any journey through Scotland’s whisky regions should begin with mastering the pronunciation of Islay (eye-la), a name as unique as the island itself and its changeable weather. Part of the charm – and perhaps also the curse – of the island is how remote it is. Flying from Glasgow is pretty straightforward and you get a sweet treat onboard. But then I would recommend hiring a car so you can get around the island. If you are driving you have a scenic, but fairly long, drive ahead of you before you can even get on the ferry.

Arriving by air

There is only one airport on the island. It is located right in between Bowmore in the middle of the island and Port Ellen on the south coast. The flights are run by Loganair and go between Glasgow and the island.

In spite of being one of the smallest airports I’ve ever been to, the team here take their security checks very seriously. There is always at least two bags being searched for each flight. The security team will come out into the waiting hall with two bags and ask for the owner. Before taking them to the side and looking through the bag. If you are bringing whisky back from Islay, do make sure to check the limits of how much you can bring. The overhead space in these airplanes is usually really limited. So even if you have a larger backpack you might need to check it. Checked luggage is usually included in all tickets for this reason.

The flight from Glasgow to Islay is a very quick one of less than an hour. The staff usually serve water and a little biscuit once you’re up in the air. And then it’s suddenly time to arrive!

Arriving by sea

You can travel across to the island from the mainland with the CalMac ferries. The most used ferry crossing is from Kennacraig on the Kintyre peninsula to either Port Askaig or Port Ellen. But there are also a couple of sailings from Oban each week. Just be mindful that even though you might be booked on to a ferry going to Port Ellen, if it’s bad weather it might be redirected to the more sheltered ferry port at Port Askaig. I would recommend a CalMac and Cheese onboard if you’re feeling hungry. It’s not just a funny pun, but also hearty and delicious. The ferry takes around 2 hours between the mainland and the island.

I’ve driven to the ferry many times now. Here are my favourite stops and sights on the way to Kennacraig:

• The Village of Luss: A scenic village on Loch Lomond which is a great place to stop for a coffee. There is also the Luss Distillery if you are not driving and fancy a little gin tasting en route.
• The Rest and Be Thankful Viewpoint: a lovely viewpoint across the valley. Bring a thermos of coffee and some sweet treats and enjoy a little stop here.
• Loch Fyne Restaurant & Oyster Bar: If you fancy some seafood, then Loch Fyne is a great spot for food. You have to try the oysters here as it’s their speciality.
• Inveraray: A perfect stop for lunch at The George Hotel or Brambles of Inveraray. There is also Inveraray Castle nearby which is worth a little walk to see the exteriors at least. If you have the time you can also buy a ticket to see the interiors.
• Tarbet: Walk up to Tarbet Castle and admire the view. There are also public bathrooms here.

Weather on the Isle of Islay: four seasons in one day is not uncommon in Scotland

The weather could affect the things you can do on the Isle of Islay, but speaking from experience the landscapes and beaches across Scotland are quite beautiful in pouring rain as well. A friend of mine recommended the website XCWeather as the most accurate for checking the weather on the island. Ever since, this has been my go-to and it is often quite reliable. And a lot better than other weather apps I’ve tried.

If you’re exploring the island in the rain, just make sure to be safe. Don’t go hill-walking or climbing if it’s super slippery or dangerous outside. You are on an island after all, so any potential injuries might only be treatable on the mainland which is quite far away. Keep an eye on the weather when planning what things to do on Islay, or in other parts of Scotland as well. So you don’t get caught out in a bad situation.

Even though preparing for rain and winds might be a good idea when planning a trip, you could also be lucky and get sunshine and blue skies which makes the island look almost tropical. Since you are almost as far west as you can get in Scotland, the sunsets on the west side of the island are absolutely magical.

Getting stuck in a storm

Just like the pronunciation of Islay often can surprise people traveling around Scotland, so can sudden storms and weather. Getting stuck in a storm and being unable to leave the island, is not very uncommon. It’s happened to me twice.

The good thing is that if you were scheduled to fly with Loganair, but the flight is cancelled due to the storm. Then Loganair will arrange overnight accommodation and a food voucher for you to use for dinner. When this happened to us the first time, we got one night at the Bowmore Hotel and then one night at The Machrie. We weren’t rushing back to anything and had a couple of extra days off so we were actually quite content being stuck on the island with more time to explore. Although I would not recommend going to the Machir Bay beach in a storm. I think I’m still finding sand in my ears…

Where to stay on the island

My two favourite spots to stay is at The Machrie and Ardbeg House. They are quite different from each other as The Machrie is all about elegant and suave luxury inspired by the island and the coastline. Whereas Ardbeg House has a quirky boutique vibe where the hotel itself is inspired by the Ardbeg whisky. It is quite an immersive stay into the world of Ardbeg.

Luxury hotels

• The Machrie: Luxurious elegance from £250 per night. Read my full review of The Machrie here.

Boutique hotels

• Ardbeg House: A quirky boutique hotel from Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy with design inspired by the Ardbeg whisky and distillery. I was one of the first people to ever have the opportunity to stay at Ardbeg House. You can read more about the whole experience at Ardberg House.
• Glenegedale House: A charming boutique guesthouse on Islay run by Graeme and Emma which is located right opposite the airport. Prices from £194 per night.

Island hotels

• No 1 Charlotte Street: Prices are from £150 per night. The hotel is conveniently located on the high street of Port Ellen and right opposite the beach.
• Islay House: A B&B set in an historic house located by the middle of the island at Bridgend. This beautiful country house dates all the way back to 1677. A stay here includes breakfast which is served in the dining room each morning. Prices from £155 per night.

Self-catering accommodation

• Gartartan Holiday Home by Port Ellen: A beautiful holiday home with 3 bedrooms and a garden. It is tucked away right outside Port Ellen with walking distance into the centre.
• Cairnmore House: A luxurious country house with 7 bedrooms, perfect for largr groups looking to stay on the island in style.

♥ Read my full guide to where to stay on the island here with options from luxury hotels to cosy holiday homes.

Things to do on the Isle of Islay in Scotland

There are a lot of things to do on the Isle of Islay in Scotland. Of course, if you are a whisky enthusiasts there are now over ten different distilleries you can visit. Distillery tours are amongst the top choices of things to do on Islay, as it’s a good way to try whisky from Scotland even when the weather might be bad. But even if you are not into whisky, it is still well worth visiting the island. I took my parents on a visit recently and even though my mother does not like whisky at all, we still founds lot of things to do that were not whisky-related. From coastal walks and seal-spotting to wild swimming and historical sites – you’ll definitely need a couple of days here to properly see the island.

♥ The Islay Wave: Make sure you wave to each car you pass when driving on the island. It is a very common thing that drivers wave to each other as you pass and considered polite.

Whisky Distilleries

If you thought it was hard to pronounce place names in Scotland like Islay (eye-la), then some of these distilleries might throw your pronunciation game for a spin. Getting the pronunciation right makes ordering whisky from Islay in Scotland much easier, but the locals have heard every version of these difficult Gaelic words so just try your best if you are not sure. A lot of the distilleries on the island are known for their heavily peated character, meaning that they have a smoky flavour. Although most distilleries here are influenced by peat, Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich make unpeated whisky as well.

• Ardbeg Distillery
• Ardnahoe Distillery
• Bowmore Distillery
• Bruichladdich Distillery
• Bunnahabhain Distillery
• Caol Ila Distillery
• Kilchoman Distillery
• Lagavulin Distillery
• Laggan Bay
• Laphroaig Distillery
• Port Ellen Distillery
• Portintruan Distillery

Want to read more about the distilleries on Islay?

There is too much to say about the whisky distilleries, so much so that I have a written a whole separate guide dedicated to this topic alone.

» Read my extensive guide to the distilleries on Islay

If whisky from Scotland is not your thing then you can also check out Islay Rum or The Botanist Gin, which is a very lovely gin from Bruichladdich Distillery (this might be the trickiest distillery for pronunciation). There is also Islay Wines which makes fruit and grain wine. They are located in Port Ellen and offer free tastings in their little shop.

Seasonal festivals on the island

The island is the stage for two popular festivals and although the whisky festival is the big event each year, there are also plenty of music fans flocking to the island for the jazz festival.

Fèis Ìle festival

Here is another phrase from Scotland which might be as challenging for pronunciation as Islay, but this is pronounced faysh-eel-la. It’s a Scottish Gaelic phrase meaning Fèis (festival) and Ìle (Islay) so it translates simply to The Islay Festival and for its duration there are plenty of things to do around the island, especially if the weather is good in Scotland. Each distillery have a dedicated day throughout where they tend to host an open day with lots of activities, tastings and food on the grounds of the distillery. There are also special releases only available to those who visit the distillery on these specific days and the whole event is almost like a pilgrimage for whisky enthusiasts.

Islay Jazz Festival

The Islay Jazz Festival is held in September and features a variety of performances all over the island. At least this festival has a straightforward name that doesn’t challenge any pronunciation skills, as long as you’ve already learned how to say Islay (eye-la) so the locals in Scotland don’t have to correct you. Caol Ila or Lagavulin Distilleries also tend to sponsor the festival and therefor also release a dedicated whisky release to celebrate. An excellent opportunity to hear world-class musicians perform in charming venues on this remote island.

Islay Sea Adventures

A tour with Islay Sea Adventures is definitely something I would highly recommend for things to do on the island. It’s a great way to see the island from a different perspective, learn more about some fascinating facts and stories and see wildlife. When I did one of the wildlife trips, the captain was surprised that we only saw a few seals around and we later found out that orcas had been spotted earlier that morning so all the seals were hiding from them. Unfortunately we never saw them, but imagine how incredible it would’ve been to see orcas in this wild landscape.

Wildlife Trip

When I went to Islay with my parents and in-laws, we booked the Wildlife Trip and spent a week prior praying to the Scotland weather gods for good weather. We got so lucky and had a week of sunshine which was perfect for the boat trip. The boat takes you out past the south coast of the island and along the way we spotted eagles, seals and deer. There might even be a little surprise dram popping up along the way.

Islay Seafood Trip

If you are a fan of seafood, then this is the experience for you. Not only do you get to see wildlife and see the southern coast whisky distilleries from a different perspective but also enjoy a fantastic seafood feast onboard. Seafood really does not get fresher than this and the menu depends on what what the fisherman caught that very same morning. Perhaps it goes without saying but seafood is also an excellent pairing with a salty and smoky island whisky. A truly memorable experience which I would warmly recommend!

Nature experiences

On of the top things to do by the Isle of Islay in Scotland is of course to enjoy the incredible nature all around you. I always love going for a walk to the American Monument on the Oa peninsula. It’s a great spot for seeing dramatic cliffs – and perhaps even a highland coo or two. There is a parking area nearby and the walk is uphill to the monument but not very challenging. It’s a particularly lovely activity when the weather is mild and not too windy as you can see for miles off the Islay coast and spot Scotland’s mainland in the distance as well as Northern Ireland.

If you prefer just to see some stunning beaches without the need of getting in the water, then go see Machir Bay. A wide sandy beach which is absolutely stunning. If you instead would prefer some seal spotting then the sheltered Claggan Bay is one of the spots where they light to sunbathe.

Another beautiful spot to visit is the Carraig Fhada lighthouse, one of only a few square lighthouses in the United Kingdom. Just as other difficult place names across Scotland, like Islay, the pronunciation of Carraig Fhada can seem difficult but it’s simply karr-ick fah-duh. Just past the lighthouse you can also find the Singing Sands beach. It has gotten its name as it’s said that if you rub your soles against the sand, it almost sounds like singing.

Wild swimming

If you’re brave enough to face the cold water, the island is also a great spot for wild swimming. Just make sure you do it in a safe area as the currents and waves can be quite dangerous in certain parts. If you’re not sure about where to go, then ask at the reception of your hotel or someone who lives on the island. Some of the best spots include the beach at Port Ellen, The Big Strand or the beach past The Machrie Hotel.

Visit the neighbour island Jura

Another of the top things to do in Islay is getting the ferry across from Port Askaig to Feolin on Jura. I recommend booking a spot on the ferry in advance as it’s not very big. The journey takes less than 10 minutes across and it is recommended to bring a vehicle as the main village of Craighouse is a 17 minute drive away. On Jura you can expect to see red deer as there is more deer on the island than people. One of the main attractions is of course the Jura Distillery where you can book a tour or a tasting, but the island is also known for its beautiful landscape. It’s a great spot for hill-climbing, but be aware that the iconic Paps of Jura is quite a challenging hike.

Where to eat & drink on the Isle of Islay in Scotland

If you like seafood you have to try it here on the island as it’s absolutely fantastic.

• Peatzeria: do you get the pun? Lovely pizzas available to eat in or take away.
• The Oyster Shed: This charming little food spot is located near Gruinart and is great for lunch. My recommendations here would be the crab focaccia with saffron aioli. They also do oysters served either au natural, baked or fried.
• Signature Restaurant at Ardbeg House: This restaurant works closely with farmers and fisherman on the island to put together a menu where local produce is at the heart. They also have a fun after-dinner trolley with a variety of whiskies to choose from. I would particularly recommend the Salted Caramel Tartlet alongside a dram of Ardbeg An Oa which is a gorgeous pairing.
• 18 Restaurant & Bar at The Machrie: An elegant restaurant serving lovely Scottish cuisine with a lot of produce from the island itself.
• The Old Kiln Café at Ardbeg Distillery: A lovely spot for lunch with a variety of lighter options like soups, pies and sandwiches. My recommendation would be the smoked haddock chowder which is delicious.
• The restaurant at the Bowmore Hotel: A restaurant which feels very genuine to the island. The menu has some lovely pub classics as well as burgers, steaks and seafood platters. You will also find Lucci’s Whisky Bar here with a fantastic variety of whiskies from all the distilleries on the island.

Bonus recommendation

If you are staying in self-catered accommodation on the island then contact the Seafood Shack Islay on facebook and order their fantastic seafood platters to pick up and enjoy. I did this as a surprise for my family when they came to visit and put together a feast with picky bits and the seafood platters as the star of the show. We sat outside on the terrace of our Airbnb and enjoyed a fantastic dinner with views over the sea as the sun started to set.

Practical information for your Islay trip

• Currency: British Pound Sterling (GBP)
• Language: Scottish English (some people on Islay also speak Scottish Gaelic, but often as a second language)
• Emergency: Call 999
• Pronunciation: of the island of Islay in Scotland is eye-la.
• Time Zone: Scotland uses Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) which is UTC+0 in winter and switches to British Summer Time (BST) in summer which is UTC+1. Daylight saving time is from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.
• Best weather app: XCWeather

FAQ – Isle of Islay in Scotland

Need more inspiration for your trip to the Isle of Islay in Scotland?

• Isle of Islay Hotels & Where to Stay: from coastal luxury to cosy AirBNBs
• Inside Ardbeg House: Islay’s Ultimate Whisky Hotel
• The Machrie Hotel: elegance and luxury on the isle of Islay
• The Best Whisky Distilleries in Scotland: From Historic Icons to Hidden Gems
• A guide to all the distilleries on Islay: tours, cafés & recommendations

Or are you going somewhere else in Scotland as well?

• Edinburgh: A local’s guide and recommendations to things to do and see
• The best hotels in Edinburgh: 19 luxurious recommendations from a local
• Lannan Bakery: a local’s recommendations and review of the most popular bakery in Edinburgh
• Where to go for a whisky tasting in Edinburgh: Scotch whisky tours & distilleries
• The Edinburgh Fringe Festival: the world’s largest arts festival
• The best time to visit Edinburgh: A seasonal travel guide
• The Dalmore Distillery Tour: a luxurious scotch whisky experience by the Cromarty Firth