If you ask me, autumn is the absolute best time to be in Edinburgh! As someone who’s called this city home for over 10 years, I’ve experienced every season—and Edinburgh in autumn is truly magical. The cobbled streets glisten in the rain, foggy mornings make the castle look like something straight out of a fairytale and the changing of the leaves makes the whole city look incredibly striking. Edinburgh is a city that seems made for autumn. So let me tell you my favourite things to do during September, October and November, as someone who calls this wonderful place home. This is my complete guide to autumn activities in Edinburgh, from the best walks to cosy indoor spots for rainy days. Whether you’re visiting Edinburgh in autumn for the first time or returning, here’s everything you need to know from a local perspective.
Table of contents
Quick Guide to Edinburgh in Autumn:
- Best months: When visiting Edinburgh in autumn, September through November each offer something special.
- Weather: Mild to cool, rainy but atmospheric
- Top activities: Autumn walks, afternoon tea, cosy pubs
- Special events: Samhuinn Fire Festival, Bonfire Night, Christmas Market Edinburgh
- Best photo spots: Dean Village, Circus Lane, Greyfriars Graveyard
What’s the Best Time to Visit Edinburgh in Autumn?
I have lived in Edinburgh for over 10 years now so I’d like to think I know a thing or two about my home city. Even though I personally think the weather in Edinburgh is better than people expect when traveling to Scotland, we also tend to get weather that quickly changes around. A raincoat is essential, but skip the umbrella – Edinburgh’s winds have broken many in their day.
But don’t worry, I will recommend both indoor and outdoor activities so you can choose how much time to spend outside, in case it rains too heavily. It’s one of my most asked questions!
♥ If you are looking for somewhere to stay on your trip then read our full guide to the best hotels in Edinburgh here!
What to Expect Month by Month: Edinburgh in autumn
September tends to be quite mild or even warm with some autumn chill in the air towards the end of the month. October brings proper autumn with changing leaves and more rainfall. November continues similarly but feels barer as winter approaches and winds steal the remaining leaves. However, November has its charm. Mid-month, the Christmas Market opens and decorations light up the streets, creating a cosy atmosphere. If you want a mix of autumn and Christmas when visiting Edinburgh in autumn, November is perfect.
Best Outdoor Activities in Edinburgh During Autumn
The first thing I always mention when I get asked what to do in Edinburgh any time of year is simply to walk around. It is an incredibly walkable city with lots to see so put on some comfortable shoes and get those steps in. Edinburgh in autumn is perfect for outdoor exploration, with the changing leaves adding golden hues to already stunning architecture.
Calton Hill: Quick Views in 10 Minutes
If you’re short on time but still want great views of Edinburgh, walk up Calton Hill at the east end of Princes Street. The climb takes just 5–10 minutes. You can take the steps on your right at the entrance or follow the path that winds around the hill to the top. Café Calton opened last summer and makes a great stop for brunch, lunch, or a drink with city views.
Arthur’s Seat: The Full Hiking Experience
For a longer walk, hike up Arthur’s Seat. It’s more demanding than Calton Hill, so avoid it in bad weather. Strong winds and uneven, slippery ground near the summit can make the climb challenging. On a clear day, walk down the far side of Arthur’s Seat and stop at the cosy Sheep Heid Inn for lunch or a pint. Nearby Dr Neil’s Garden is also worth a visit, especially when the leaves change colour.
Best Photo Walk: Stockbridge to Circus Lane
Edinburgh has so many postcard-worthy corners so it’s also a great idea to go for a photo walk and try to capture as many gorgeous shots as you can to keep as memories from your trip. My favourite walk is around Stockbridge. Start at Dean Village, follow the Water of Leith past St Bernard’s Well, then visit the Royal Botanic Gardens. End at Circus Lane (Edinburgh’s most photographed street) after grabbing pastries from Lannan Bakery.
Another idea for a walk with little pitstops is a tea crawl around the city, where my recommendations would be to visit Bon AppéTea in Stockbridge, Hey Tea near the Royal Mile and ChaHalo near the Grassmarket.
Spooky Autumn Vibes: Ghost Tours & Graveyards
If you’re looking for spooky vibes, join a ghost walking tour to explore Edinburgh’s darker history. You can also visit one of the city’s graveyards. My favourites are St Cuthbert’s Kirkyard and Greyfriars Graveyard. Both look magical when the leaves change colour. Despite their spooky reputation, I find them peaceful and calming places to wander. At Greyfriars, keep an eye out for familiar names—J.K. Rowling borrowed several character names from the gravestones here.
If you fancy a little warming treat whilst exploring the outdoor side of Edinburgh, then there is the popular Uplands Roast who have a stall by The Meadows where they serve indulgent hot chocolates. This is not too far away from Greyfriars graveyard either.
Day Trips: Castles Near Edinburgh
If you are instead looking for a little excursion, why not go visit a castle? There is of course the lovely Edinburgh Castle or the elegant Holyrood Palace (not a proper castle, but an impressive royal building) in the middle of the city, but a short journey away you can also find the ruins of Craigmillar Castle or Tantallon Castle.
Indoor Things to Do When It Rains in Edinburgh
It’s no surprise that it sometimes rains in Scotland, although I personally find that it rains less in Edinburgh than I had anticipated when I initially moved here. Autumn is the perfect time to hide away from any potential rain and find activities indoors, but I do just want to leave the classic Swedish saying here: “there is no bad weather, only bad clothes” so don’t let the rain stop you from seeing the city either! Luckily, there are plenty of cosy autumn activities in Edinburgh that keep you dry and entertained.
Afternoon Tea
I have such a weak spot for Afternoon Tea and also think it’s a great way to spend a couple of hours with a friend, enjoying a variety of flavours – sweet and savoury – whilst chatting away and enjoying a gorgeous location.
My top favourite afternoon tea is the one at The Caledonian hotel which often has a fun theme. But I will warn you, it’s a lot of food so make sure you arrive hungry and that you have enough time to really enjoy everything. They are also more than happy to offer you a box to take away anything you might want to keep for later. Some other lovely locations for afternoon tea in Edinburgh is The Signet Library (this venue holds a special place in my heart as I got married here!), The Balmoral Palm Court, Gleneagles Townhouse, Prestonfield House and The Witchery. The latter two in particular have fantastic gothic autumn vibes.
Tea is not the only popular drink in Scotland, but during the colder months you should also try a hot toddy. It’s traditionally made with tea or hot water, spices and whisky! If you fancy trying a hot toddy then they can be found in many of the whisky pubs and bars, like The Black Cat or Amber at The Scotch Whisky Experience.
If it’s feeling chilly outside and you want to hide inside for a lunch to warm up, then I would also recommend a proper pub lunch. One of my favourite spots is The Queens Arms which has an incredible mac and cheese with ham hock or a beef shin pie that are both hearty and warming.
Ceilidh
Something else that’s sure to warm you up is a ceilidh. A ceilidh is a Scottish social event with traditional folk music and dancing. Live bands usually play, and people join together for specific dances.
Don’t worry if you don’t know the dances! A caller goes through the steps before each one. You can join in without any experience. It’s incredibly fun and I warmly recommend it.
You don’t need a partner – just bring a friend. Though you’ll usually dance in pairs during the actual dances.
Bonnie & Wild in St James Quarter hosts a ceilidh club every last Thursday of the month. It’s a great place to join if you’re visiting Edinburgh in autumn at that time. Other ceilidh clubs operate across the city (a quick Google search will find them). Just book ahead so you don’t miss out on spaces.
Champagne bars and rooftop bars
One of my personal favourite spots is Nor’ Loft at the Market Street Hotel. This champagne bar does a lovely cheese fondue during autumn months. I highly recommend it! Nor’ Loft is a rooftop bar overlooking Waverley Train Station. The views stretch towards The Balmoral and Princes Street. You get gorgeous scenery while you eat and drink.
Museums
Finally I can’t talk about indoor activities without mentioning the fantastic museums in the city. The Portrait Gallery on Queen Street is my favourite spot. It has an incredible entrance room worth visiting on its own. You can also explore The National Museum of Scotland, The National Galleries, or the Modern Art Museum buildings. Choose based on what interests you most.
Special Seasonal Events in Edinburgh During Autumn
During the autumn months, Halloween is of course a big celebration! But did you know that it coincides with the Gaelic festival Samhuinn which is celebrated in Edinburgh? Samhuinn Fire Festival marks the end of summer and beckoning arrival of winter. And is celebrated with a fire parade around Calton Hill. There are often performers dressed up in masks that can look a little scary. So just be aware before bringing younger children along in case they get frightened.
Bonfire Night
Bonfire Night commemorates the failed Gunpowder Plot of 1605. Guy Fawkes tried to blow up the House of Lords, and we celebrate his failure every November 5th. Fireworks light up the city around this date. Calton Hill is a popular viewing spot. You can usually see several different firework displays from up here.
If you’re visiting Edinburgh in autumn during Bonfire Night, check online for what’s happening. Some areas have limited fireworks due to their proximity to the zoo. The displays were harmful to the animals living there, so restrictions now apply.
Christmas
As autumn starts nearing its end in November, Christmas is already around the corner! From mid November you can attend the Edinburgh Christmas Market. There are stalls set up in different locations around the city, but primarily around Scott Monument and the Princes Street Gardens. Go get yourself a mulled wine and stroll through the market, whilst you get to enjoy the festivity before the craziness of December is upon us. There are really lovely festive shops and restaurant displays around George Street and St Andrews Square that make for lovely photo opportunities. Visiting in November is usually a great idea for the market, as there tends to be a lot less people and especially so during weekdays.
♥ Read my guide with my best local shops, food stalls and where to go during the Edinburgh Christmas market
FAQ Visiting Edinburgh in Autumn
Edinburgh is wonderful year-round, but autumn in Edinburgh is my personal favourite! The changing leaves, misty mornings, and rain-glistened cobblestones create such a moody, magical atmosphere.
I’d highly recommend buying tickets in advance for Edinburgh Castle if you plan to visit as it can be a very popular attraction.
The hotels I would recommend for a fantastic stay in Edinburgh are the Kimpton Charlotte Square, Virgin Hotels Edinburgh, The Balmoral, Gleneagles Townhouse and The Witchery.
This of course depends on your personal taste, but if you ask me the best Afternoon Tea in Edinburgh can be found at the Caledonian Hotel! Their menu often has a specific seasonal theme and both the savouries, sweets and tea menu is fantastic – don’t miss trying out the Cloud Catcher fruit infusion from local tea specialist shop Pekoe Tea on the menu which has a gorgeous pink hue and a lovely fruity flavour.
Visiting Edinburgh in autumn is much quieter than summer. September and October are particularly peaceful, with fewer tourists than peak season. November gets busier when the Christmas Market opens mid-month, but it’s still more manageable than July and August.
Read more related articles about Scotland:
- The Three Chimneys Isle of Skye: Where Luxury Meets Wilderness
- Isle of Raasay – the hidden island gem next to the Isle of Skye
Need more inspiration for your Edinburgh trip?
- Edinburgh: A local’s guide and recommendations to things to do and see
- The best hotels in Edinburgh: 19 luxurious recommendations
- Lannan Bakery: a local’s recommendations and review of the most popular bakery in Edinburgh
- Visiting the Edinburgh Christmas Market
- The Edinburgh Fringe Festival: the world’s largest arts festival
What season are you visiting Edinburgh in? See my seasonal guides here below!
- The best time to visit Edinburgh: A seasonal travel guide
- Edinburgh Guide in Spring
- Edinburgh Guide in Summer
- Edinburgh Guide in Winter
Meet Moa, our multi-talented writer from Sweden who now calls Edinburgh, Scotland home. With over a decade exploring Europe’s hidden corners—from Nordic landscapes to alpine villages—Moa brings a unique perspective shaped by her years as a travel guide in the Swiss and Austrian Alps. As a whisky book author and freelance drinks writer, she has an eye for exceptional food and beverage experiences, while her background as a photographer ensures she never misses a scenic moment. Whether she’s discovering old European cities or chasing golden hour in mountain villages, Moa’s stories blend cultural insight with a dash of adventure and plenty of authenticity.
