Aix-en-Provence with Kids: A Slow Two Days in Provence

I fell in love with Aix-en-Provence many years ago. The light that feels special here, the charming buildings with the French shutters, the sounds on the street and the vibrant food scene. But to be honest, what I was telling my friends, after a few days in Aix-en-Provence with kids and our dog, what I loved most, was spending time in nature and in the surroundings of Aix-en-Provence. What stayed with me are the views at the Sainte-Victoire mountain, the biking trip with my family and I loved eating pizza on the grass between the locals in Le Tholonet.

In this travel guide of Aix-en-Provence, I will give you some ideas for activities with your kids, to fully enjoy the charm of this Provencal city and its surroundings. I will let you know where you and your little ones will have the best French pizza experience, with locals playing pétanque and lots of space to play, and how to step into the traces of artist Paul Cézanne, one of the former residents of Aix-en-Provence. 

‘The truth is in nature, and I shall find it’ 
Paul Cézanne

Why Aix-en-Provence works with children

I wanted to go back to Aix-en-Provence, the city that brought so many good memories from an earlier visit. The terraces and lunches we visited, the antique market, and mostly, the charming city itself, buildings with French shutters and the light that feels o so special here. This time I was bringing the whole family, kids and dog included. This element changes the whole scene, because it’s not just a city trip this time. I wanted to explore the city, but I also wanted to explore nature, bringing the kids and dog to a place where they have space and options to play outside. 

Aix-en-Provence is an easy city to stroll around and that makes it very child friendly. The overall atmosphere feels calm, not hectic. Besides, the old city centre is free of cars, so that makes it really safe for your little ones to walk around. There are lovely squares with terraces and fountains. Actually there’s quite some fountains in Aix-en-Provence, you can find about 20 in the city centre. So if you want to, you can make a hunt of it with the kids, searching the fountains together.

Where we stayed: an Airbnb near the Sainte-Victoire mountain

As a starting point, I found us an Airbnb at the rim of Aix-en-Provence, on the hill, surrounded by nature, close to one of the entrances of the Sainte-Victoire National Reserve, the Grand Site around the Sainte-Victoire mountain, a limestone massif with a length of 18 km, 5 km wide and an altitude of 1.011 meters. This mountain is a major landmark of the Aix Region and came back many times in the paintings of Paul Cézanne. He painted the mountain roughly 80 to 87 times, in oil paint and in watercolor. 

The Airbnb I booked got a saltwater pool (closed off season), a tennis court and free use of their mountain bikes. Especially the last two options were popular ones in booking this specific Airbnb. With the oldest one, we started the day with a game of tennis. The kids (and the dog) had plenty of space to play, cycle around on fenced terrain and we had a nice, private terrace in the sun. I loved the location close to the entrance of the Sainte-Victoire National Reserve, it’s one of the things that really stand out and made our stay.

Would I stay at this Airbnb the next time when I’m in Aix-en-Provence? Location wise, yes definitely. Otherwise no, I don’t think so. The overall experience was nice. I loved the outdoor area and the owners were kind. But the interior felt outdated and the cleaning could be better. Besides, I care for good aesthetics. For this Airbnb we paid about 300 euros per night, without Airbnb service costs. My search for an accommodation was pretty last-minute, so I was happy I found a place where we could stay with our dog. But next time, when I have the time, I will probably pick another place. I think Aix-en-Provence really has some great options. I will show you some in this guide.

Day 1: the city, shops, markets and Cézanne

When I was in Paris, I visited Le Petit Souk and brought some nice souvenirs with me for the children. As soon I found out they also have a Le Petit Souk in Aix-en-Provence, I knew I wanted to visit this store with them. It’s like a candy store, for both children and parents. They sell toys, decoration, lunch boxes, bags, and scrunchies. It’s truly a joy to look around here, like the child in you is coming alive again. 24 Rue Gaston de Saporta, Aix-en-Provence.

I love to read and I also like to visit book stores. Book in Bar is a place with books in several languages (English downstairs, other languages on the first floor) and where you can have a coffee or a cup of tea. I bought myself a book here called ‘Three wild dogs’ from Markus Zusak. As a dog owner myself, it was highly entertaining (I was laughing out loud) and recognizable to read. 4 Rue Joseph Cabassol.

The big Saturday market in Aix-en-Provence is also worth a visit. They sell fresh fruits and cheese, but also handmade baskets and curiosities. Make sure to go early, that will make it easier to find a parking spot. It starts at 8.30 and lasts until 13.00. Look for a complete overview of all the weekly markets at the tourism website of Aix-en-Provence. You can find the Saturday market at Cours Mirabeau, Place des Anciens Combattants d’Afrique du Nord, Place Forbin, Places Comtales and Rue Thiers.

In Cézanne footsteps: Atelier des Lauves

Unfortunately closed for maintenance when I was in Aix-en-Provence with my family, but it’s definitely on the list for next time: Cézanne’s studio, L’Atelier des Lauves. Paul Cézanne worked and lived here from 1902 until his death in 1906. How cool is it that you can have a look inside and see his former work equipment and the objects he was using for his still lifes? I’m always thrilled to see an atelier in real life, there’s something about that. Like you can feel the creativity in the air. 13, Avenue Paul Cézanne.

• Tickets are €9,50 for adults, kids under 13 years old can come for free.
• Dogs are not allowed inside the historical buildings, but leashed dogs are allowed in the gardens. So if anybody wants to stay outside, you’re good to go with dog. Good to know- booking is also required to enter the gardens of Atelier des Lauves. You will pay €2 for a garden ticket (free entrance on the first and third Sunday of each month). Tickets are available at the reception desk.

Do you like to see more of the city and the traces of Paul Cézanne? Make it easy for you and your little ones and book a tour with an electric train. The tour will take about one hour.

The best pizza (and pétanque)

One of the recommendations we got from our Airbnb host, was going to Le Tholonet on a sunny evening, to pick up pizza here and eat between the locals. We drove to Tholonet and pretty soon we found the pizza food truck she was talking about: Harmony Pizza (on the parking lot- Parking du Ferrageon). We ordered some pizzas and we found ourselves a nice spot on the grass where we played badminton until the pizzas were ready. Ordering pizza in France can be a deception, but these ones were really good, with a thin crust. Next to us, on the other side of the street, people were playing petanque. So you can also bring your own petanque set and play a game as well. Parking du Ferrageon, Le Tholonet.

♥ At the rim of Le Tholonet, you will find the mill of Cézanne. The painter rented this mill for a while and used it to store his painting gear.

Day 2: hiking and biking with the kids

One of the perks of our Airbnb was free use of their mountain bikes. With the oldest one, we found ourselves a fitting mountain bike and we cycled inside the Nature Reserve to look for a nice view on the Sainte-Victoire mountain. Being outside and exploring new terrains together really worked out well. Once we found ourselves a nice spot, we were sure that we also wanted to bring the rest of the family here. Such a peaceful place, under the pine trees and with a breathtaking view. So later on, we went back, with some food and drinks to have a little picnic together. We also took our dog with us who was running along with the bikes.

♥ For this bike ride, I put some pencils and paper in my bag, to prolong our stay at the picnic spot and make some drawings of the Sainte-Victoire mountain. A simple act that turned out as a nice activity together (and a nice souvenir to take back home). It felt like stepping into the traces of Paul Cézanne. If you want to, you can also book a drawing workshop in this Nature Reserve.

♥ Would you like to stock on your art supplies? Go and visit Papeterie Michel in the city centre. 59 Cours Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence.

The Sainte-Victoire National Reserve is also an excellent starting point to make some beautiful hikes with your children.

• You got for example The Bimont Dam Loop. The distance of this route is 5 kilometer and it will take about one hour and a half. Starting point: Bimont Dam parking lot. Difficulty: easy. You will follow the turquoise waters of the Bimont Dam and you will get nice views of the Sainte-Victoire mountain.
• You got also walks near Lac Zola that are suitable for children. I wanted to go there, but we had to reschedule our plans (sometimes life comes in between) and we didn’t have an enough time to make it to this place. The easiest one for younger kids is the Short Zola Dam Return. The distance is about 4.2 kilometer and will take about one hour and a half. Difficulty: easy to moderate. You will park at the Bibémus lot. The trail is mostly flat and shaded by pines trees, with wild rosemary and thyme growing along the path. Follow the wide roads toward the Zola Dam (Barrage Zola).

Look for specific routes on AllTrails.

Which route we did, and how long it took

We had quite a lead, because we were staying close to one of the entrances of the Sainte-Victoire National Reserve. Cycling to the entrance took us about 10 minutes. You cycle on an asphalt road and it was only a small part where we went upwards. There’s another path next to the road, but the road was definitely the more comfortable option. The picnic spot with the view on the Sainte-Victoire is only a 10 minute bike route away from the entrance and the Bibémus parking, so in total we cycled about 40 minutes. How to get there? Follow the main road from the Bibémus parking, into the Nature Reserve, and go left where the big roads splits. Follow the gravel path and after a little while, you will find the Sainte-Victoire mountain on your right side.

This route was easily doable with two kids under twelve and a dog who never ran with a bicycle before.

Practical: when to go, getting there, getting around

Sainte-Victoire National Reserve is not a place where you can go year round. The site is a marked as a high risk area for wildfires. So that’s why acces is restricted between 1 June and 30 September. The area isn’t available on extreme warm and windy days. Please check the risk prevention website of the French government before you go. That said, I also think this area is more beautiful in spring and in autumn, so I would prefer these seasons. Lower temperatures will feel more suitable, especially if you plan to go walking or biking.

The Sainte-Victoire National Reserve got several entrances and parking lots. Which one you choose, will depend on the route you want to hike or bike. The easiest way to get there is by car, but there are also busses available. You can take for example bus 140 close from the Aix-en-Provence train station, stepping up at Boulevard Row René and getting out of the bus at Collongue. From there it’s a 20 minute walk to the Bibémus parking. Doable if you’re going for a small walk afterwards, otherwise I wouldn’t recommend the bus ride. Total amount of travelling time: 46 minutes. And beware- the regional busses around Aix-en-Provence only take animals under 10 kilogram.

Take enough water and caps to protect yourself and your children from the sun. Even in wintertime the Provence gets quite some sun. Good walking shoes are recommended.

♥ Dogs are welcome in the Nature Reserve of the Sainte-Victoire Mountain. Don’t forget to bring water and poopbags (I forgot mine and asked a French couple in my poor French for a ‘sac du drôle’, like a bag of jokes. It brought some smiles to their faces, on the faces of my kids as well, and it’s a memory we took back home).

♥ Cool fact for boy ands girls who are into dinosaurs: the Grand Site of the Sainte-Victoire Mountain is also a place where geologists discovered about a hundred dinosaur eggs, dating back approximately 72 million years.

The Bibémus quarries

Réserve Naturelle de Sainte-Victoire is also home to the Bibémus quarries (in French Carrières de Bibémus), a place that inspired Cézanne to make several paintings. The stones from the Bibémus quarries were used to build Aix-en-Provence in the 17^th and 18^th century.

If you want to see the Bibémus quarries by yourself, there is only one way, and that’s by making a reservation at the tourism centre of Aix-en-Provence. They offer several guided tours to the Bibémus, like one with a professional artist who will provide you with simple and intuitive tools to sharpen your vision and express what you see on paper with pencil and paint.

• The tour is available in French and English, tickets are €55 for adults, and €38 for children from 5 till 16 years old. Look for more information on the website of the tourism centre of Aix-en-Provence.

Where to eat with kids in and around Aix-en-Provence

Gaodina, is a hotel & restaurant, just ten minutes outside the centre of Aix-en-Provence. It’s a great place to go for a lunch or have diner. Go pick a spot in their beautiful garden and keep an eye on their agenda, because they also organize events with live music or with a dj. You can find the hotel (with family rooms and swimming pool) under the name Domaine Gao. Even when you’re not staying in the hotel, you’re able to book a day at the swimming pool, including breakfast. Dogs are welcome to join you for lunch, dog stays at the hotel are on application.

• Open from Monday-Saturday from 12.00 PM-2.30 PM and from 7.00 PM -10.00 PM.
  On Sundays from 12,00 PM-2.30 PM. 1075 Chemin du Mont Robert, Aix-en-Provence.

La Kabanon des Écuries de l’Aube is a restaurant in Saint-Marc-Jaumegarde, 14 minutes by car from Aix-en-Provence. They serve French cuisine and they also have pizza. For children, there’s lots of space to play. There is a little park with a lama and a donkey, a petanque court and a court to play beach volleybal. They also have two swimming pools (one for adults and one for families). If you want to dive in, you pay a bit more. For adults and children above 13 years old, it’s €15 per person (in combination with the restaurant) and €8 for children (age 4-13 years old, in combination with the restaurant), children under 4 can go for free. Some evenings, there even is live music.

Adress: Rte du Plan de Lorgue, 13100 Saint-Marc-Jaumegarde.

Dip honest food is an all day café (brunch, lunch, dinner and cocktails) that offers dishes inspired by the Mediterranean sun. Think of shakshuka or bulgur with herbs, and filled pitas and mezze to share. They also serve pancakes any yoghurt bowls with fresh fruit. Or just go for a coffee. Open from 8.30-23.00, on Fridays and Saturdays open till midnight. 2 Rue Fernand Dol, Aix-en-Provence.

♥ Sometimes you don’t want to eat out. We arrived in Aix-en-Provence at the end of the day and made it ourselves easy to pick up some food from a Vietnamese take away called Nguyen Thanh. The food was really tasty and fresh, so if you’re into Vietnamese food, I can truly recommend this place. 16 Rue Gaston de Saporta, Aix-en-Provence.

♥ If you’re close by and looking for a bakery, make sure to pick up bread from La Fabrique à Pain. This bakery is next level. Try it, I’m sure you won’t regret ordering their croissants. I enjoyed every piece of it. 4 Rue Pierre de Coubertin, Aix-en-Provence.

Where to stay in Aix-en-Provence

Domaine Gao (from the Gaodina restaurant) would be one of my favourites when staying close to Aix-en-Provence. The property is beautiful and the prices are very reasonable. They have a swimming pool, a restaurant and dogs can stay on application. Prices per night for a family room starts around €150, offseason.

Les Lodges Sainte-Victoire Hôtel & Spa is a great place along the road from Aix-en-Provence to Le Tholonet. I discovered this place while driving to Le Tholonet. The views at the Saint Victoire Mountain are insane. They have three pools, a spa and family rooms. And a big advantage- you can take your dog as well (on application). Prices are around €395 a night for two adults and two children, offseason. So not one of the cheapest options, but definitely one that suits into the style of Dutchbloggeronthemove.

Citycamp d’Aix-en-Provence wouldn’t be my first pick, because I’m not a big fan of campings. On the other hand, it ticks all the boxes when traveling with kids: outdoor space, options to play outside, a swimming pool and the accommodations looks neat. There’s also the option to pick up pizza and you even got a view on the Sainte-Victoire mountain (depending on the accommodation you will get). Prices around €145 a night, off-season. Dogs are welcome and you’re pretty close to Aix-en-Provence.

Hôtel Boutique Cézanne centre Aix-en-Provence could be a nice option if you want to stay in the city center. You got all the restaurants and coffee places nearby. And you won’t waste time looking for a parking space. Small dogs (till 10 kilo, ours is not an option), can stay in the hotel. A parking option is available and when the weather is good, you can have your breakfast outside. For a family room, prices are around €317 a night.

Our Airbnb was situated close to one of the entrances of the Sainte-Victoire National Reserve and I found you a similar location on Airbnb. They have space for eight guests in total. There is a swimming pool, a hammock and they have a trampoline. Pets are welcome. Be aware this accommodation also has a cat. The owners will ask you to feed it while you’re staying in their rental space. Only available for a week (prices around €600 a night). Aix-en-Provence.

FAQ

On the move | my thoughts about Aix-en-Provence

I experienced Aix-en-Provence in a different way than years back. That’s not totally surprisingly, because I changed, I’m someone different than say 15 years ago, and I have different needs now. I still love the city vibes, but I’m more and more in awe of nature. Nature can really make an impression on me, and the experience itself is more fulfilling to me than exploring the city. One of my highlights of this trip was cycling together, having a picnic with a magnificent view at the Sainte-Victoire mountain and exploring new terrains together. 

More places to discover in a slow pace:

• Le Plan-de-la-Tour: a slow base in the Gulf of Saint-Tropez
• Le Perche France: a slow travel escape into the Normandy Countryside
• You’re close to Chateau de La Coste filled with modern art & ofcourse wine